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And how she ended up at my house.

Connecting through stories of food, tradition, and community

Ciao !

Cariddi is one of the mythical Greek gods that lived in the waters between Sicily and Messina. In Homer's epic tale The Odyssey, Charybdis (often spelled Cariddi in Italian) is a monstrous sea creature who creates a massive, deadly whirlpool by swallowing and spitting out the ocean's water three times a day. She lives in a narrow strait opposite Scylla, a terrifying six-headed monster who snatches men from passing ships. This dilemma helped to create the expression "between a rock and a hard place". The story is not a happy one but what IS happy is if you go to Scilla (home of the mythical Scylla) and spend a few glorious days (like I did in October.). It is just across the straight of Messina from Sicily. I love that tiny special place! Apparently so did mythical Greek gods.

I fell in love with Cariddi - it was more like an obsession - in San Leone, a tiny waterfront town near Agrigento in the South of Sicily. I was with good friends at "Caico", an amazingly good restaurant and once Marco the owner realized I spoke Italian he wanted to show me his art.

Marco showed me a bust of Cariddi made by a Sicilian artist and mama mia, Cariddi was haunting! And a tad intimidating. And breathtaking. And to me, she represented everything I feel about Sicily: exotic, of the sea, beauty, power, mythical. Marco told me the name of the artist, Nicola Mirenda, and I spent the next week stalking...trying to find his art, or him.

I found him.

After multiple phone calls and emails – and driving my friends crazy with my obsession - he agreed to host us at his studio in the small seaside town of San Stefano di Camastra, known widely for its ceramics. This town is an hour trip by car (90 minutes by train.) from Palermo and is striking in its location and beauty with ceramics woven into everything: stop signs, park benches, light fixtures. Nicola's studio is a few kilometers outside of the center and is up over the sea; his kilns and most of the buildings are outside and open air with a spectacular view of the water.

Nicola is as hospitable and friendly and effusive as he is immensely talented. I liked him immediately! And as I've gotten to know him more my affection is even greater. He has a reputation for never creating the same piece of art twice, but he agreed to create Cariddi for me as close to the original as possible. I've never felt so honored.

Four months later, my friend Dania and I traveled to San Stefano di Camastra to retrieve Cariddi from Nicola's studio. The photos below are from that day. I stay in touch with Nicola and his wife and take friends there whenever possible. I have added the link to his instagram page below but I advise you to either take a nap or knock back a double espresso before you "go in"! It's alot but it's worth the trip, and every piece of art is absolutely beautiful. I want my house to be covered in Nicola Mirenda art.

https://www.instagram.com/nicola.mirenda/

The original Cariddi at Caico

The original Cariddi at Caico

   
Nicola LAV e Cariddi

Nicola LAV e Cariddi

Nicola's Outdoor Studio

Nicola's Outdoor Studio

   
Cariddi and sidekick at LAV's

Cariddi and sidekick at LAV's

LIFE IN PALERMO AND SOUTHERN ITALY IS SLOWER. MY life in Palermo is slower. The pace is addictive. I use my phone less and with more intention and only when I need it. Same for my computers. I don't feel guilty about not using every moment of my time "efficiently", non-efficient moments (hours...days...) are more important here. And more meaningful. Working 12 hour days is not a badge of honor and value, it's more a sign of not having your priorities correctly in place. There is no undercurrent of do do do. There IS a hugely appealing culture of be, with your family and friends, and with yourself. At the doctor's office they are as high tech as any advanced nation, but, to log your appointment they write it down on paper (usually a piece of scrap paper for your reminder.) with a number 2 pencil. When I rent a car with Papa Nicola e Giuseppe, they write down my first name also on paper and also in pencil, and take no credit card as security. They give me their cell numbers in case I need them during the rental and then accidentally add me to their family text string. They decide to leave me included. That was 4 years ago.

THIS is my Palermo.

CIBO E VINO — Food & Wine

FORMAGGIO AFFOGATO

You can basically affogato anything. It means "drowned" or "smothered" in Italian and you see it on dessert menus with espresso and gelato. At our shop in Lexington, we drowned cheese and herbs in our olive oil. The "official" company recipe is here but you can substitute any spices, herbs that you prefer. I often use feta and chevre together and include Greek olives...and hot chiles of course!

Many recipes suggest using canola oil because it does not congeal or solidify as much in the refrigerator but we strongly suggest you use a very good extra virgin olive oil that you love (ours, thank you.) and just pull it out an hour or so before you serve it. You want that olive oil to be the foundation for flavor and texture, and health.

The formaggio affogato is wonderful schmeared on bread but also melted onto hot baby spring potatoes or vegetables.

You can toss a jar with hot pasta including the oil and add fresh basil leaves.

The oil is wonderful poured over a.n.y.t.h.i.n.g. I have happily sipped it from the jar.

From: Robin Ramsay [robinramsay77@gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2016 12:36 PM
To: Lea Ann Vessels; Robin Ramsay
Subject: Formaggio Affogato

Formaggio Affogato Assembly

-2oz. Goat cheese in 2 pieces
-thyme tangle bottom of jar. Length of white sample spoon.
-crushed black peppercorns. White sample spoonful.
-1 crushed red pepper and 2 whole ones.
-long curl lemon rind curled with curve of jar.
-thyme tangle on top.
-oil to brim below threads.
-salt sprinkle.
-lid, tightened.

   
formaggio affogato 2
formaggio affogato 3

— To quote Gianfranco, a friend in Palermo who always gifts me when I leave, and to whom I always ask what may I bring him upon my return…

“Just bring your love.”OlivaBella_Olive-01

olives in hand

Alla prossima…see you in two weeks.

Lea Ann Vessels and Oliva Bella

With love.

olivabella.com

Extra Virgin Olive Oils from Sicily (and Abruzzo)

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