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And how Google Maps tried to kill me...once again!

Connecting through stories of food, tradition, and community

Ciao !

This weekend I spent 3 days in the Northeastern part of Sicily, in the zone of Mt. Etna, the infamous volcano. The drive there was absolutely spectacular, along the coast of a deep blue sea and through hills filled with ancient cities perched so close to the edge they resemble dice ready to tumble down the cliff at any moment.

Sicily is 25% the size of Kentucky and it feels like ALL of Europe to me.

I wanted to better understand the wine culture and agricultural community in these tiny towns that surround Etna. I wanted to touch the authenticity of the people there and their way of life. I enlisted my local friend Ciccio (Francesco) to accompany me since he has worked and lived there for so many years.

The first thing you notice is the black lava rock. Everywhere. The houses and buildings are made from it, the roads are paved with it, the stone fences (much like the ones found in horse country near Lexington, Kentucky) are made from it. There is seemingly an infinite supply since the volcano continues to be active and is a part of everyday life.

The next thing you notice is the lushness of the foliage and vineyards, the soil is immensely fertile because of the lava (which is one reason the wines from this region are magnificent.). I spent the weekend at a winery that had rooms and the cacophony of birds and animals and the scents of the flowers and plants were overwhelming. It was a palpable antidote especially to the wild and chaotic Palermo that I had no idea I needed.

We spent half the day exploring a couple of the tiny towns and the other half with friends of Ciccio's who have agricultural businesses or farms (or restaurants) on Etna, including Tomo whose family owns a strawberry farm and roadside stand. From a distance it looked as if we were arriving to a party full of music and really happy people (all friends or family). They were just hanging and eating strawberries (maybe the best of my life) and laughing and hugging and visiting. What a concept!

Tomo's son, Karim, introduced me to "Bu" the family's asino or donkey. After 10 minutes of my petting and loving on this very friendly animal Karim told me..."of course we are going to eat him". Donkey meat is a specialty of the Eastern coast of Sicily. Along with the authenticity I was seeking came a dose of reality. I could no longer look "Bu" in the eye.

And always in the background, the magestic Mount Etna.

We also spent time at Cottanera, a winery whose wines are as delicious as the place is beautiful, with stunning vistas from every angle. Our Oliva Bella Travels group trip is staying at Cottanera in the Fall. As is the case with many wineries in the area, most of the people who produce the wine and work the harvest are women. How Cool! I was fortunate enough to meet some of them this weekend.

I left Etna with the connection to the area that I had sought. A sacred and meaningful energy runs through this region, it was a gift to experience it.

Note: the photos below do not do justice to the scenery and what I saw this weekend, you absolutely must experience it in person to even begin to feel and understand it.

Etna Vines, you can barely see it but the sea is just beyone the stone house.

Etna Vines, you can barely see it but the sea is just beyone the stone house.

   
Her Majesty, Mount Etna

Her Majesty, Mount Etna

   
BLACK LAVA ROCK EVERYWHERE

BLACK LAVA ROCK EVERYWHERE

COTTANERA WINERY

COTTANERA WINERY

   
TOMO, LAV E CICCIO – I purchased and ate 5 lbs of strawberries, much to everyone's embarrassment (they were awesome!)

TOMO, LAV E CICCIO – I purchased and ate 5 lbs of strawberries, much to everyone's embarrassment (they were awesome!)

Google Maps IS NOT ALWAYS CORRECT! The GPS sent me literally UP the mountain, I spent over an hour going 18 miles in either first or second gear at a 45 degree angle on a "road" that was mostly gravel and mostly washed away. A sharp switch back every few minutes that required backing up, no guard rails, barely wide enough for my tiny car, and 2000 feet into the air. I have PTSD typing this. Once I arrived to my destination and had stopped hyperventilating from fear of death, a guy told me "you must never take that route, it is horrible, even the people who live there avoid it." The same thing happened years ago en route to Erice. The woman at the hotel at the top blanched white when I told her my route, she said that is the goat path, even the goats won't take it.

 

By the way, it is awesome (and sometimes lifesaving) to be able to ask directions in Italian, thank you Grazia!

ALL of this...is my Italy.

CIBO E VINO — Food & Wine

CAPONATA!

Caponata is one of the most noted and beloved dishes of Sicily. You taste the cuisine of every culture who has invaded the island in this exotic melange. The basic recipe is fried eggplant, celery, tomatoes, olives, capers, sour vinegar, good olive oil and often so much more and every town and family has its own version. Each bite tells a story of all those ancient cultures. At our shop in Lexington we made and sold Caponata, it was the recipe of an Italian friend's Nonna or grandmother. Ours also included unsweetened chocolate, raisins and was amazing, grazie Paolo.

Caponata is delicious on its own, warm, cold, room temperature (my preference), or piled onto toasted bread with good mozzarella and more good olive oil, or served with or on fish (swordfish or tuna in Sicily) or any meat.

Buon appetito!

   
caponata

Caponta!

— To quote Gianfranco, a friend in Palermo who always gifts me when I leave, and to whom I always ask what may I bring him upon my return…

“Just bring your love.”OlivaBella_Olive-01

olives in hand

Alla prossima…see you in two weeks.

From Sicily!

Lea Ann Vessels and Oliva Bella

With love.

olivabella.com

Extra Virgin Olive Oils from Sicily (and Abruzzo)

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