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TRAGHETTI – ITALIAN FERRIES

Connecting through stories of food, tradition, and community

Ciao !

In Fall of 2021 I drove from Rome to Palermo stopping in San Lucido, Calabria, to meet my friend Meorina. After leaving San Lucido I drove further south to Villa San Giovanni to take the ferry – or traghetto – to Messina, which is in Sicily. The straight of Messina is roughly 3 kilometers wide and connects the two regions, there is no bridge.

These ferries are an obsession of mine, nearly as strong as my obsession with cranes (another story...).

I was driving so I had to figure out how to purchase a ticket - the maritime office was not at the port – and how to get on that boat. There are specific ferries each for cars, for cargo trucks and for trains. I entered the wrong line, they waved me ahead anyway, you drive right onto the boat. I took the ferry in my tiny car...with 47 cargo trucks.

The duration is roughly 30 minutes, you can stay in your car (I recommend not), you can go sit in the indoor lounge and take a coffee or beer, or you can climb the stairs to the top 2 decks and experience the trip up over the sea with the wind whipping over you.

Guess which choice I do recommend?

Sometimes there is rain (which is wonderful!), you have a 360 degree view of the weather and sky, of all the other ferries and boats in the strait, of the beautiful scenery on all shores, and it is an absolute blast and joy! I am always disappointed when the trip ends.

(Full disclosure: I am certain that the air would come out of my happy balloon if I had to traverse this every day like hundreds, if not thousands, of commuters do.)

If you have the time to travel by train from Rome to Palermo, and I recommend that you do, the train even goes on a ferry. They wheel the train cars right onto the ferry but into the lower decks or even into the bottom level of the train. Often you will see 3 or 4 trains parked next to each other in the "basement" of the ferry.

You DO have to exit the train once on the ferry, NO one wants to be INside a very heavy train car in the bottom of a boat when it sinks or when there is an issue.

But that is when you run upstairs, grab an espresso or beer in the bar and go outside to the front of the boat and grin as largely as feasible into the wind for the next half an hour.

During my first car trip mentioned above, with all the trucks, when I climbed to the highest point on the ferry (where they wouldn't yell at me to leave), I met a truck driver and sat with him during the trip. He gave me half the sandwich his wife made him and told me, with tears in his eyes, how much he misses his family when he works and he showed me fotos of his kids. Had I gotten on the "right" traghetti, I would have never had this connection with him. Or sandwich.

THIS...is my Italy.

Driving onto Traghetti in Reggio di Calabria

Driving onto Traghetti in Reggio di Calabria

   
Train ON the traghetti

Train ON the traghetti

WE'RE PROUD TO WELCOME WILSON'S GROCERY TO THE OLIVA BELLA FAMILY

You can now find our products (olive oil and Grace sauce for now.) at Wilson's Grocery on Cramer Avenue in Lexington.

15 years ago Wilson's was an old neighborhood family-run grocery store and meat market that felt like a country store in all the best ways and had been there forever. You saw everyone that you knew. I loved the place for all those reasons.

Today it is this very cool, equally inviting, "updated" version of a neighborhood store and gathering place that I also love and would visit daily if I lived nearby. It feels "Brooklyn-esque" but in Kentucky.

Please check them out, make a visit. It's an especially good vibe on Saturday mornings.

wilsons grocery and meats

https://www.wilsonsgrocery.com/

CIBO E VINO — Food & Wine

STONE FRUIT PANZANELLA SALAD

Panzanella salad is a classic Tuscan bread salad that originates from Cucina Povera (peasant cooking) as a way to use stale bread by soaking it in water and adding to garden vegetables along with olive oil and vinegar.

This version takes stone fruit, croutons, salami and/or prosciutto and makes the salad a bit more hefty and satisfying. I use cherries, plums and nectarines just because they looked the best and were most ripe. I also use "house dressing" since it is almost always in my refrigerator and contains our olive oil and I am a bit lazy. The "recipe" is reprinted below the recipe for Panzanella.

I also added in tomatoes for color and savory, you can chunk up large tomoatoes or use the tiny sweet ones. And even though fresh mozzarella would probably be more authentically Italian, I use blue cheese for funk and bite and it pairs well with the fruit, much like on a cheese plate.

For those who live in Louisville and know Blue Dog Bakery (and for those who don't, Google it and go there now...), I slice and toast their whole wheat, dense and dark-grained flutes for the croutons. The flutes are studded with dried currants and often walnuts. Side note: These flutes are also great slathered with blue cheese, topped with walnuts, run under the broiler to melt the cheese, then draped with thinly sliced prosciutto. Adding bitter marmalade or fig jam before you add the cheese elevates this light years.

I also add pickled hot cherry peppers to the salad (I prefer Calabrian but they are hot, fresno which are less hot, peppadews are least hot) and a bit of the brine but not everyone chases heat like I do. By the way, these peppers would be good on the same cheese plate with the stone fruit, the blue cheese, the flutes, etc...

PANZANELLA RECIPE

3 lbs stone fruit (nectarines, peaches, plums, cherries)

1 cup "house dressing" or a combination of extra virgin olive oil and red wine vinegar (use your own judgement on quantity, everyone's preferences are different.)

8 oz rustic bread (or 3 Blue Dog flutes) thickly sliced and toasted (I toss them with olive oil in a bowl first.)

2, maybe 3 oz thinly sliced salami or prosciutto

½ cup fresh basil leaves

Salt and pepper

Remove pits from fruit and/or slice fruit off pits. Place in a large bowl, season with salt.

Add toasted croutons to bowl with fruit, add some dressing and toss to combine.

Add salami and basil leaves, add more dressing as you want and tossing salad until bread absorbs some of the dressing and softens.

Arrange on a platter, top with salt and pepper and more basil. Best served at room temperature.

Panzanella

There are no cherries in the foto, I ate them all before the I made the salad (all 2 pounds of them.)

   
Panzanella prep

Panzanella prep

— To quote Gianfranco, a friend in Palermo who always gifts me when I leave, and to whom I always ask what may I bring him upon my return…

“Just bring your love.”OlivaBella_Olive-01

olives in hand

Alla prossima…see you in two weeks.

Lea Ann Vessels and Oliva Bella

With love.

olivabella.com

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